Arrivals and departures in luxury. Changes at Givenchy, Tod's and Rochas

New faces in the fashion system. In a few days a remix occurred within some historic luxury maisons. It was the turn of the seats that started Givenchy which he announced last Friday the farewell of Matthew Williams , an American designer appointed creative director just three years ago, confirming the rumors that had been circulating in the sector for some time. The designer had been called in the midst of the pandemic to take on the role of the Englishman Clare Waight Keller , head of the luxury brand since 2017, after the stylistic era of Riccardo Tisci . The news of the divorce with the fashion house arrived a few days after the announcement that the Hong Kong entrepreneur Adrian Cheng has acquired a majority stake in the ready-to-wear brand 1017 Alyx 9sm , of which Williams has been founder and creative director since 2015.

A few hours later Tod's announced the arrival of Matteo Tamburini at the creative helm , following the recent farewell of Walter Chiapponi , who has now moved on to the style of Blumarine . Born in Urbino in 1982, the designer entered the world of fashion at the beginning of the 2000s, after studying fashion and design, working for some of the major luxury brands, including his latest experience in Bottega Veneta since 2017. The designer will debut with the presentation of the Tod's autumn/winter 2024-25 women's collection, during the next Milan fashion week.

This morning the arrival of Alessandro Vigilante from Rochas in the role of creative director of ready to wear. The French fashion house has bet on the talent of the Italian designer after saying goodbye last April after two years. The maison was taken over by the group Interparfums , which purchased the fashion and fragrance business from Procter&Gamble for 108 million dollars (equal to 98.1 million euros), in 2015. Vigilante, among the most promising names on the new Milanese style scene, also boasts a career as a dancer. The creative from Puglia has worked for brands of the caliber of Dolce & Gabbana , Gucci , Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini e The Attic also launching his eponymous brand in 2021. Vigilante will present his first collection for the maison founded in 1925 during the next Paris Fashion Week (28 February – 5 March).

The luxury landscape is gradually changing to finally include designers from a new generation of talent. So far, however, the fashion houses have not yet given space to promising female designers including, just to name a few, Martine Rose , Veronica Leoni And Wales Bonner , widely appreciated by professionals for their collections.